Friday, July 25, 2008

Why Does My Mineral Makeup Change Color?

This is the same question I had when I was first introduced to mineral makeup. Have any of you ever experienced color changes to your skin after wearing mineral makeup for a few hours? I have!.......My face would do strange things. I would peer into the mirror later in the day to be thoroughly shocked by an orange face staring back at me. I tried neutral to beige colors to try and tone it down, not understanding what was happening, only to now have a gray pall to my skin. Not a pretty look for me!

As I began to research formulating my own line of cosmetics, I soon realized what was happening with other minerals that would have this strange phenomenon occur.

In some instances it was a coating on the minerals that would cause the change in color such as carnauba wax which is used to treat micas to create better adherence and a creamier texture. All powders with this treatment would melt on my face, creep into my fine lines and always turned me a pasty orange shade like that of a pumpkin. Now don't misunderstand....I love pumpkins....I just don't want to look like one. This odd phenomenon would mainly occur within my t-zone area where I tended to be a bit oily and spread to a lighter degree across my face. Carnauba wax was not great at stabilizing color as I soon learned, and was separating from the micas as it warmed to my skin, creating a caked look as well.

Then I just loved the look of the gray ghost when I tried to neutralize the orange tone with a beige one. I was totally confused at what was happening here. Why would beige go gray? I looked like death warmed over and hideous. I can go trick or treating without the sheet!

Again, having an understanding of color theory, I investigated the color ingredients being used and unfortunately in some of the companies all colors were not declared in the list. However, it was clear that chromium oxide green was being used to tone down orange in a shade. Green is used to neutralize red oxide, however it is famous for graying out a color. Products which use chromium oxide green will cause a gray pall, and will be emphasized when it gets wet or you perspire, almost becoming ashy in tone. Many customers are not aware of the consequences of certain ingredients used and colored oxides are not explained when making a purchase.

Another reason for a complexion turning orange from mineral makeup has also been shown to occur on women who use certain medications on their skin. In this instance there is no fault with the mineral powders but simply a chemical reaction is occurring. AHA’s, rosacea treatment crèmes and some acne treatments will alter the color of the oxides usually having a bleaching effect on the color. Red oxide which is a dominant color, when bleached will of course turn a weird version of orange. If this is happening to you, investigate your skin care and if possible save treatments for nighttime only. However, be aware residuals from treatments may still be on the skin during the day and this problem may reoccur.

For women that do not wish to experience this phenomenon, usually utilizing one of our shades from the olive / beige tones will correct much of the problem and you won't have to fear the dreaded ghost look since there is no chromium oxide green used in my mineral makeup foundations. It is a bit of trial and error, but I have assisted women in correcting the gray through a change of mineral powders, or orange cast with a simple change in color foundation. Also using a correct shade of blush which possesses more red / blue in it works wonders for counteracting the orange glow which can occur from certain skin treatments. Strong sallow skin tones will also benefit from this same advice.

Hopefully mystery solved for some of you that have also asked, “hey, why is my mineral makeup changing color?” For another bit of information, essentially part 2 of this mystery, on shift in colors of Lipsticks and Blush, this article can help shed some light on another scenario which may be happening with your skin.

Have a lovely weekend!

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