The FDA Globalization Act of 2009...We Are Celebrating!

Hello to all of my readers I bring you Special News,

I write to you this morning with great jubilation after receiving the latest update as to what is happening within the cosmetic industry and how we were going to be affected by the FDA Globalization Act of 2009 becoming a Bill in the house yesterday.

The news is fantastic and I had promised to bring all of you up to date with the latest as it occurred. All indie companies this morning are celebrating and internet chatter is all a buzz.

There will be no mandatory fees as was intended in the original FDA Globalization Act discussion draft of 2008. These fees were so ridiculous that anyone wishing to launch their own small business wouldn't have stood a chance. If these fees had been in place, Sterling Minerals would probably have never been realized for me. The original draft was so anti small business it was literally going to quash the American Dream for many women owned businesses that formulate your favorite natural skin care products. The big box companies would have survived while smaller companies would have closed their doors, whereby eliminating your choices and their competition which are providing you with healthier choices.

The FDA's main focus is on importers to our country which have repeatedly caused harm to our nations' public in the context of drugs and food and to protect us with stricter inspections for foreign and domestic manufacturers that provide these to us. These entities have been the hardest hit by the new bill. And in terms of our health these are the entities that required some serious revamping since they are what have been linked to deaths in past months. For instance the most recent salmonella outbreak linked to peanut butter.

Please be aware that certain jars of peanut butter purchased at the store are exempt from this problem and it was primarily related to products manufactured with processed foods such as peanut butter crackers or peanut butter cups, etc. etc. and two specific brands provided by ConAgra Foods, Peter Pan and Great Value.

The only thing really different is now all cosmetic companies are mandated to register with the FDA including all of their products and their list of ingredients, and must provide full disclosure. I support this very much since I am already an FDA registered company and I practice truth in labeling and have always believed in ethics of full disclosure. I will agree there are some companies out there producing products that are not manufactured under the GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) guidelines, including lack of disclosure to their ingredient lists. These companies should be called into question if they are not willing to comply with the new set of rules which will assist the FDA with keeping us safer from harmful ingredients.

Furthermore, The Campaign For Safe Cosmetics, in their petition to Congress was to call for practices that were impossible for even some of the larger companies to accomplish, and they were basically cherry picking reports on ingredients that were shown to cause cancer, injury and the like, when there are other reports to absolutely contradict their findings. Nothing is that black and white! They also were using explanations with Data gaps as high as 95% for most ingredients found in skin care products. How any entity can make such claims or take a stand to only serve their agenda, which is the reason I withdrew my support of their campaign, is beyond me. Their information is designed to scare the public, not educate it. This is literally lopsided propaganda and is utterly irresponsible.

For Example: when they attack ingredients which fall under the preservative category, this is not only unwarranted but the Campaign and EWG are actually putting your health at risk. Natural and synthetic preservatives provide a vital function for keeping skin care products from growing bacteria, yeast, mold or fungus which this would actually be more dangerous for the consumer since the nasties growing in your favorite skin care products can go undetected. A product may look and smell normal despite the bacterial growth taking place. There are safe and necessary methods today, aside from using parabens, of preserving skin care emulsions and cosmetics without causing any proven long term effects, and they are typically only 1% or less of the total emulsion. Large companies simply choose to ignore the latest in preservative technology and stick with parabens, and in lies the problem with EWG and the Campaign.

These watchdog groups, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics along with The Environmental Working Group were striving to create such a hardship on the backs of the very micro cosmetic companies that supported their efforts to get harmful chemicals out of skin care products, we simply wouldn't have survived it. This was due to being blinded by the contempt of big box companies that are harming our public with such ingredients, they couldn't even realize, much less care what their efforts were doing to those in the cosmetic industry that agreed with them as whole.

I am so thrilled to share this news with you it could not wait until next weeks news letter. It is a party within the industry and I wanted you to celebrate with us. My company will thrive and my new skin care line will be launched and our days are definitely a lot brighter for the future. Dancin' on a cloud right now! A stress relief for sure!

Thank you to all those who signed our petition as your help along with our efforts to fight this did not fall on deaf ears in congress. And it was clear that a realization of our companies efforts to continue to provide the safest and most natural products on the market today is evident due to how the current bill was written. We still have a bit of tweaking on some other issues that will help create a level playing field for independent companies versus big box names, but we believe, as indies, we will be able to work hand in hand with congress to make the bill into law and create better safety for everyone within the industry along with their customers.

Have a great weekend and CELEBRATE! Whoo Hoo!!!

For Reference Information to bring you up to date:

Preservatives in Cosmetics ~ Natural vs Synthetic
The original FDA Globalization Act of 2008
The safety of Titanium Dioxide and The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) What Does It Mean?

Sun Protection Factor is still confusing for many and I always thought the higher the SPF, the better off my skin would be. This is true, but only to a point as I learned a few years back.

SPF ratings are geared toward helping us determine how long we spend in the sun combined with how quickly we might burn when spending that time in the sun.

For instance: If you were to burn in 30 minutes.... then in order to spend, let's say 2 hrs in the sun, then an SPF of 4 will give you this extra time without burning. If you enjoy being outside all day in the sun, a full 8 hrs, then you would require an SPF of 15. If you burn in half this time then you would double your sun protection factor making an 8 hr day requiring an SPF of 30.

Now to give you some data that most don't realize. As explained to me by my dermatologist, and through information found in the skin deep data base and Mayo Clinic, anything over a 30 SPF is a waste of money and is giving us a false sense of security. Many think the higher the SPF the better, sometimes using SPF 45 or 55. This might be true if the sun were up 24/7 but for those that even burn in the shortest amount of time a 30 SPF is the highest required. And the Mayo Clinic warns that the time during the day to avoid the suns intense rays are between the hours of 10 am and 4 pm. This is a 6 hr window..... so why are we slathering on chemical products that claim they'll last us into next week, unnecessarily? I mean...I personally don't wish to glow in the dark!

Sometimes I wonder if I should be more afraid of chemical sunscreens than the sun itself. I choose the sun in safe doses for health and well being while still always protecting my face.

Also remember, allowing the suns rays to have contact with our unprotected skin for brief periods during sun peak hours (approximately 15 minutes worth) helps us to create the essential Vitamin D our bodies crave which helps us fight off certain types of cancers, disease and fights osteoporosis. Plus most liquid sunscreens on the market today are formulated with synthetic chemicals and there there is now information available as to the fact that certain synthetic sunscreens are actually causing free radical damage to our skin by absorption of the suns UV rays rather than refracting them. You also could be using one of the ingredients you think is effective only to learn this may be one of the ones on the list for becoming completely ineffective in as little as 30 minutes, this includes being wary of SPF marketing claims. Much of it is hype!

An article that gives further information on these potential problems .... Are Sunscreens Safe To Use? I did part one to this information in relation to the use of Tanning Beds and are they a safer way to get a tan?

Environmental Factors: This will also equate with an SPF protecting our skin from sunburn. For instance, reflected sun off of snow, water or sand, swimming, exercising, or simply laying around in the sun, probably perspiring. Take these factors into consideration and realize that even an SPF in liquid form gets absorbed, breaks down over time or wears off before it is going to last you the recommended time in the sun. No liquid chemical sunscreen, regardless of its' SPF rating is going to last a full 8 hrs. Typically reapplication is required at the bare minimum every 4 hrs. This is why anything over an SPF 30 is a waste of money, is sales hype, and is only further enhancing higher levels of sunscreen chemicals to be absorbed into our bodies.

Also due to the fact that chemical sunscreens do break down, unless you are replacing them every 6 months to a year, their effectiveness is greatly reduced.

Another factor is those that call their SPF a sun block...this cannot be claimed and only Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide are physical sun blockers and chemicals do not block rays but absorb them so these must be referred to as sunscreens.

This now brings me to the benefits of dry Sunscreens utilizing Titanium Dioxide and / or Zinc Oxide which are typically found in mineral makeup.

The Truth about Sun Protection Factor: You will enjoy the added benefit of natural UV-A and UV-B protection from finely milled Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide used in mineral cosmetics.

These ingredients are different than liquid synthetic sunscreens since they provide a physical barrier capable of blocking the suns rays and give immediate protection as soon as they are applied. There is no waiting 15 to 20 minutes before going out into the sun or getting into the water. They are not nano sized, so they are not absorbed into the skin, but sit on top of it providing a very nice sun barrier. They refract UV light rather than absorb it. However, it is recommended using additional sunscreen in order to achieve a higher level of sun protection if you plan on being outside for extended periods, or at the very least perhaps apply another layer of mineral powder. Just make sure your choice will not cause problems for your skin; non-occlusive ingredients only and try to locate a liquid sunscreen that utilizes these two key ingredients. And when using mineral makeup, an additional step of locating a low SPF in liquid form is the most practical. You can also reduce the levels of synthetic chemical sunscreen exposure by substituting with clothing or staying inside when possible during the peak hours of sun exposure.

Unless you enjoy very heavy coverage, (Tammy Faye Baker springs to mind) all mineral makeup on the market is not designed for complete sun protection.  It serves to help boost it, yet it is also subject to how much you apply or how much time you spend outside, including whether it is peak or off peak hours of daylight. SPF rating claims cannot be achieved with the amount of powder most women typically use due to the intensity of color and coverage one gets from using so little. Furthermore, there is less sunscreen in darker shades and more in lighter shades since Titanium and Zinc are also considered a pigment for achieving the varying shades you find in mineral makeup. So it stands to reason an SPF rating will actually go up or down in strength depending on your skin tone. But also remember, those with darker skin have higher levels of melanin which will naturally protect their skin from the damage the sun can do. It is more about protection from the UVA rays which contribute to aging.

Depending on your shade selection and application rates when using a mineral makeup, SPF range can be anywhere from an SPF 10 to SPF 25 based on our own field testing of Sterling Minerals. I personally enjoy slightly heavier coverage so I have achieved the capability of remaining outside for most of the day with only my minerals on my face. Other woman using our minerals have claimed the same depending on their level of coverage. These ratings are beneficial; however you will need to decide how much protection you're actually getting from your use of mineral makeup.

This is why I will not pursue a Sun Protection Factor since it is completely subjective to how much you apply. I have been asked this question about our SPF rating and why we are not making a claim as to the level of protection our minerals can provide. Aside from the answers stated earlier, without the very expensive FDA testing for SPF, no company is allowed to make an actual claim to a rating. If they do, they are in violation of FDA law. Unfortunately, I see it all over the internet of others making SPF claims without the FDA certification. So please be wary about what you are actually buying.

Full disclosure is very important and again, I always try to make it clear my philosophy for my company which includes full transparency on everything we do within my company.

Hopefully this has created a better understanding of what an SPF rating actually means and how you are protected or rather unprotected through marketing claims and methods of use.

Have a lovely weekend!

Hugs!

Can You Get A Safe Tan With Tanning Beds?

As a person who has used tanning beds in the recent past and use to love baking in the sun when I was younger, I decided the need for more information was necessary as I stared in the mirror noticing the cumulative effects the sun has had on my skin over the years. Is it possible to really get a tan safely using a tanning bed? I really didn't know! I at least thought I was doing the best thing for my skin. I mean it had to be better than the sun since these beds kept me from burning, right?

Dermatologists say "No", and don't recommend tanning at all. Other doctors including Dr. Michael Holick, director of the Vitamin D, Skin and Bone Research Laboratory and professor of Medicine, Dermatology, Physiology, and Biophysics at Boston University Medical Center encourage getting some sun, usually 10-20 minutes during midday, to increase vitamin D within our bodies. The time frame is depending on how fair you are. The hours before 10 am and after 4 pm actually have more of the harmful UVA rays. Midday gives us the higher concentration of the UVB rays which provide us with the essential Vitamin D to help support our immune system. This vitamin is a known source for prevention of certain types of cancer, including colon cancer and many others. It is also excellent for fighting depression, stroke, heart disease and osteoporosis. Currently due to the concerns about skin cancer, most Americans of all races are vitamin D deficient since most of us are covering ourselves in sunscreens.

But can you increase this vitamin using a tanning bed?

The answer is "no"! However the tanning bed industry would like to convince us otherwise.

I personally was going to the tanning bed in the winter before going on a vacation to a warm location because I am pretty fair yet I will tan. If I tried to go south with my pale skin, my sunburns were the worst despite being perched in the shade or slathering on SPF creams of 30+. So for me a tanning bed was the answer to protect my skin from that terrible sunburn along with sunscreens, but at what cost?

One thing is for sure getting some natural sun will cause the melanin in the skin to react which in turn will give you a tan slowly. A natural tan does protect us from further sunburn which when a sunburn occurs is what encourages wrinkling of the skin and causes severe damage to the epidermis and deeper. And if you live in a region where sun exposure is limited to only the summers then winter time can become depressing since sunshine is proven to be an excellent mood elevator.

So some of us cruise to our local tanning salon for that shot of warmth to our bones and to improve our complexion with a golden brown color. And of course the tanning salon will convince you that a tanning bed is the safe way to get a tan and to increase vitamin D in our bodies. But this is misleading information.

First off the tanning bed and our natural sun effect the skin differently. They both give off different levels of UVA and UVB rays and our skin absorbs both but in different ways.

UVA Rays are what reach deep within the layers of the dermis and are what cause wrinkling and permanent DNA changes to our skin yet you will have that beautiful golden tan that signifies health and well being but there will be no stimulation of vitamin D.

UVB rays are what only effect the immediate surface of our skin and are what give us that glorious sunburn when we allow ourselves to get overexposed quickly, yet also triggers the vital vitamin D our bodies crave for genuine health not just the fake appearance of it.

Either way UVA and UVB rays contribute to changes in the skin and cause many forms of skin cancer. UVB are the rays which can burn you in as little as 20 minutes when we allow ourselves to jump right into getting that beautiful tan. Such as coming fresh out of winter and our skin is white like alabaster, or we are convinced without a sunburn we won't tan. However when limiting our time in the natural sun for the recommended time by the Mayo Clinic we will have minimal skin damage, get a very slow increase in skin color (yes a tan) giving us a low risk of skin cancer and will be perfect for increasing the necessary vitamin D within our bodies. The key is to prevent the initial aging, skin damaging sunburn at all costs. Take it easy!

Tanning salons on the other hand are into the sales pitch about them only utilizing the UVA non-burning rays to provide us with a safe tan. Their beds are typically calibrated to be 95% UVA in order to reduce burning and increase browning. However the level of exposure increases significantly since we are completely exposed, usually buck naked, allowing huge absorption ratios of UVA rays.

In natural sun we seldom walk around naked, and are either in shorts and sleeveless shirts or a swimsuit at times. This is usually sufficient exposure to the skin to absorb UVB rays for its healing properties. Exposure only to our arms and legs will give us enough of a vitamin D boost to our immune systems to keep us happy and healthy.

I of course always protect my head and face to keep any more sun away from these areas despite the benefits it has. Remember, the skin on our neck and face is much thinner whereby it stands to reason why we wear most of the damage on our faces and show signs of our age like wearing a badge of honor signifying our years of foolish sun-baking.

Of course when some of us live farther north and have less sun exposure throughout the year, may be tempted to head to the tanning salon. But don't since substituting with vitamin D3 will do the trick until we can soak up those natural rays once again.

Just don't be lulled into a sense of safety with these beds just because the UVB burning rays are removed.

Bottom line anytime we overexpose ourselves to UVA or UVB rays we increase our risk of sun damage and changes to our skin including increasing the signs of aging. When used in moderation getting color can be achieved safely to a degree such as my brief stint with tanning beds before my trip because the fact is, darker skin will help protect the skin from further sunburn. But maintaining a tan throughout the winter the artificial way will definitely over time subject our bodies to significant changes to our DNA and will have far reaching ramifications to our overall health.

For those of us fortunate to live in areas where we can catch some natural rays in moderation all year long then we will have the benefits of the health producing vitamin D year round.

Moderation is always key in all things and when dealing with our sun, do it the safe way and remember even our natural sunshine can cause great harm if we don't protect ourselves from its' rays during the majority of peak sun hours between 10 am and 4 pm except for a small dose of vitamin D. Also be cautious around areas that cast reflection of the sun rays since this will also intensify its' effects.

Example: areas around patios, lying by the side of a pool or floating on top of the water on a mattress.

Also the time specified by the Mayo Clinic is for those of Caucasian skin type and those with darker skin will need longer exposure to receive same benefits due to the levels of protective melanin in their skin.

Bottom line, I avoid tanning beds now, once I learned how they really work and I make sure I also limit my time in the natural sun as well and stick to the Mayo clinic recommendations. Use the sun for good health and our sun will be our best friend for overall well being and tanning beds are certainly no substitute for Mr. Sunshine.

Foiling Method Of Applying Eye Shadow

I have had women ask me how to make their eye shadow more intense. They love the color but wish for it to really pop. Foiling eye color is the answer, yet I was surprised to learn many women are not familiar with this term or what it even is.

Foiling is a simple method and gives beautiful results. It also helps the eye color to last longer. Precision is perfect with no fuss or muss.

Begin with your jar of loose mineral eye shadows, tap out a tiny amount onto a plate or into the lid. Remember do not touch your brush to the sifter to prevent cross contamination.

Then get your shading brush slightly damp using distilled water preferably, followed by dipping it into the minerals. When you look at the color now, you will see it has intensified to a super rich color.

Now simply apply to the eyelid. The sensation will be very cooling, and the eye color will be gorgeous.

Foiling method is also similar to creating an eyeliner out of darker shades using an eye liner brush. Angled brushes are excellent for intensifying the color in the crease.

Mineral eye colors can be just as dark and rich through foiling them as commercial shades loaded with dyes, lakes and synthetic colors without the risk of problems these can cause around the eye area.

A final spritz of distilled water over the top will set the eye color for the day. Make sure you keep the eyelid closed, or if you still have a crease like me when your lid is closed then keep the eye wide by looking down and raising eyebrows and not allow your eyelid to crease until lid dries.

Tip: Don't ever stretch or pull the crease out of the eyelid since this will only damage the delicate eye tissue over time. And as we mature, we certainly don't need to help gravity any. So use facial muscles to extend the eyelid instead of your fingers.

Making Eye Color Last Longer

Although my mineral Rose Bloom Eye Colors are formulated in a base to increase staying power and are not just colored micas which do not last, they are not impervious to fade out or creasing.

Many factors contribute to this. The shape of the eye, skin creams, blinking or oily skin.

Due to the shape of the eye such as a woman with very little lid or a deep fold in the eyelid will tend to have fade out and a bit of build up of shadow in the crease. Women of Asian heritage tend to possess this eye type. Blinking throughout the day causes an ongoing rub out every time the lid opens and closes.

Women with beautiful deep set eyes have it made as far as the color lasting forever. The lid is large and is shrouded by a high brow bone so very little crease, preventing the rub out. I have a deep crease with a small lid so I too experience some fade out. It simply is genetics ladies, and we just make do with what we have been blessed with. And as we age eyelids begin to droop more, making our crease heavier and more prominent. Having an eye color look as fresh as the moment we applied it by the end of the day, will be a miracle for our eye types. Basically the same principal as lipstick. It too won't last all day due to speaking, eating, drinking and from licking our lips.

Very oily lids will also cause eye shadow to crease or the use of creams which possess silicone oils due to the slip properties of these ingredients. If you experience this problem due to creams or oily lids then I advise using an eyelid primer before applying your eyeshadow. Evening Rose Veil can assist with this or a drugstore brand will work equally as well. Also avoid applying moisturizer directly to the eyelid. Save it for bedtime after makeup comes off. Other companies state the opposite to make their mica colors adhere, however this will only make the problem worse and a skin cream cannot prevent a colored mica from wearing off since they have no ingredients for adherence to the eyelid. Creasing will be terrible and literally after about an hour the color will all but be gone.

Only use a moisturizer that is free of silicone yet possess, natural butters and oils which absorb really well and don't tend to leave a greasy after feel. Our new Vitamin Rich Facial Serum arriving next month, is going to be perfect for priming the face and eyes for mineral makeup application.

I hope all of your holiday plans went off without a hitch and I missed writing to you every week. It was a nice break, but I am glad to be back.

Hope you all have a great 2009!